Features

Discovering Barcelona's modernist past

With a huge array of sites from palaces and mansions to shops and streetlights, the city can lay claim to being a capital of the cultural and artistic movement that followed industrialisation

If there is one thing Barcelona can claim as a des­ti­na­tion, it is that there is no short­age of things to see or do. Mu­se­ums and gal­leries, restau­rants and bars, the beach and parks, the choices are al­most lim­it­less. Yet, one thing every vis­i­tor to the Cata­lan cap­i­tal should do is check out Barcelona's mod­ernist her­itage, as the cul­tural move­ment from the end of the 19th cen­tury helped de­fine the city and make it what it is today.

There are over 120 build­ings left be­hind by the so­cial class that pros­pered from the coun­try's in­dus­tri­al­i­sa­tion. Wealthy, cul­tur­ally aware and with an eye for style, Barcelona's upper classes built gen­uine ar­chi­tec­tural won­ders, such as Cerdà's Eix­am­ple dis­trict in the cen­tre of the city. A thriv­ing Eu­ro­pean city at the time, its an­cient walls were pulled down to make space for the build­ings that the wealthy classes com­mis­sioned from ar­chi­tec­tural fig­ures like Puig i Cadafalch, Josep Fonseré, Doménech i Mon­taner and, the most im­por­tant of them all, An­toni Gaudí. The mod­ernist style cel­e­brated lux­ury and re­fine­ment, and used new ma­te­ri­als and tech­niques.

Mod­ernist cap­i­tal

Barcelona's rep­u­ta­tion as a cap­i­tal of mod­ernism is as­sured and pro­vides a great prism through which to view the city. Whether it is lis­ten­ing to music on the ter­races of Palau Güell or La Pe­dr­era, at­tend­ing a con­cert in the gar­dens of Hos­pi­tal de Sant Pau, or mar­vel­ling at the ar­chi­tec­tural op­u­lence of Palau de la Música, mak­ing time for the city's mod­ernist past is some­thing no vis­i­tor will re­gret.

For those keen to know more about the city's mod­ernist her­itage, there is now a spe­cial itin­er­ary called the Ruta del Mod­ernisme de Barcelona. Nat­u­rally, the tour in­cludes palaces and noble houses, but also makes space for more mun­dane ex­am­ples, such as chemists and other shops or sur­viv­ing street fur­ni­ture. The itin­er­ary is marked by red signs on the ground to keep vis­i­tors on the right track, while a spe­cially-pro­duced guide book also in­cludes dis­counts for en­trance to the main build­ings. The Ruta del Mod­ernisme is or­gan­ised by the In­sti­tut Mu­nic­i­pal del Paisatge Urbà i la Qual­i­tat de Vida, as part of the cam­paign to im­prove the
city's urban land­scape. As a re­sult, prof­its from sales of the guide are used for con­ser­va­tion or restora­tion so that Barcelona's mod­ernist her­itage re­mains a jewel in the city's crown.

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