Food & Wine

basket. TEXT. CUINA magazine. PHOTO. Anna Garcia Frigola

Little green pearls

It's now time to celebrate the humble pea

Orig­i­nally from Asia Minor, for cen­turies puréed peas were a del­i­cacy made from dried peas. How­ever, his­tor­i­cal ev­i­dence points to the Chi­nese as being the first to con­sume the ten­der, green del­i­ca­cies, still in their pods, but also shelled, along with other va­ri­eties, de­pend­ing on how tough the pod was once cooked. Eu­rope had to wait until the 16th cen­tury for the pea to ar­rive to its shores.

Though the young, ten­der pea is de­li­cious and ed­i­ble raw, cook­ing peas is what ac­cen­tu­ates their sweet­ness. Ei­ther boil­ing them or toss­ing them into a pan with a touch of fat, along with other fresh veg­eta­bles, are sim­ple and ef­fec­tive ways of cook­ing them. An­other op­tion is to cook them with just a lit­tle water or steam­ing them. Peas tend to lose their sweet­ness as they get older and are then used in pre­serves, as the sug­ars are trans­formed into starch, which also makes them floury.

Maresme peas

The Maresme re­gion reigns supreme as the home of the pea in Cat­alo­nia, and there is more than one food fair ded­i­cated to the tiny green de­lights, held in var­i­ous towns every year. One of the most im­por­tant is the Peso­lada in Caldes d'Es­trac, which even in­cludes a com­pe­ti­tion of short films based around this pop­u­lar legume.

Snow peas are also pop­u­lar in spring­time. Un­like the other va­ri­eties of pea, they are usu­ally eaten whole. Nor should we for­get a cu­ri­ous vari­ant with an un­known her­itage, the black pea, which is har­vested in the sum­mer months.

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