A land of towers and castles
The county of Noguera in Lleida was on the front line in the conflicts of Christians against Moors, which can still be seen today in the large number of castles to be found in the area
With Balaguer as its county capital, Noguera is in the province of Lleida. Among its high points as a place to visit, Noguera boasts a number of castles that go back to the conflicts with the Moors in the early Middle Ages.
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Balaguer's first fortification, Formós castle is of Arab origin and dates back to the end of the 9th century when it was used as a border defence. Its function changed two centuries later when it was turned into the residence of the Andalusian governor. After the Christian Reconquest, the building served as the official dwelling of the counts of Urgell, who highlighted its palatial richness by giving it the name it goes by today.
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The castle and church of Sant Pere have been an inseparable unit since Arnau Mir de Tost reconquered the Àger valley midway through the 11th century. The Urgell noble founded the church on the remains of the Muslim citadel that had stood there previously, turning the fortress into a major centre of power. The structure's main feature is its round tower that is in fact the largest from Catalonia's medieval period.
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The 11th century Montsonís castle is easily recognised by its square towers crowned by imposing battlements, as well as its windows that were installed during the Renaissance period. Despite its dominant exterior appearance, insidethere is a magical atmosphere. Today, the palace has the charm of a typical medieval fortress down to the last detail, including displays of shields, swords and suits of armour, as well as a frightening dungeon below its foundations. The castle is still inhabited and some rooms are sealed off for private use, but guided visits are available all year round.
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The first written records refer to this castle as malignum castrum, no doubt for the mark it left in Christian memory after it had been used as a fortress by the Moors.
Raised on the highest hilltop of Os de Balaguer and fortified in 1035, the castle overlooked the highest stretches of the River Farfanya. In 1716, Gaspar de Portolà, the first governor of California, was born there, according to recent research. Today, located inside a huge Gothic hall is the Museu de la Campana de Catalunya.
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As if straight out of a fairy tale, the castle tower of the Baronia de Sant Oïsme rises naked atop a pile of rocks covered in greenery. After passing through a semi-circular arched gateway, visitors to the castle can climb a metal staircase to enjoy wonderful views of Montsec and the Camarasa reservoir.
However, a thousand years ago, the surroundings were not so idyllic, as the tower was then under constant attack.
Castles
As symbols of ultimate feudal authority, castles were centres of power and civilisation for many centuries. In the Lleida counties in the Middle Ages, castles were often the source of disputes between the counts of Urgell and the occupying Moorish forces.
As time passed, castles remained in the hands of the upper classes but were often renovated as the use of gunpowder made their role as fortifications less important.
In Noguera there are dozens of towns built around the castles to be found there, which are worth visiting so as to be transported back in time.