Food & Wine

FOOD BASKET. CUINA magazine. PHOTO:

Ornament to grub

Aubergines went from the garden to kitchen

The aubergines, or egg­plant as it is called in North Amer­ica, Aus­tralia and New Zealand, is a veg­etable we con­sume be­fore it is fully ripe. How­ever, it wasn't al­ways like that. Orig­i­nally from India, from where it spread to Turkey, Egypt and other Mediter­ranean coun­tries, it was first ap­pre­ci­ated as an or­na­men­tal plant and even thought to be ined­i­ble and that eat­ing it could lead to mad­ness. Yet, over time, the aubergine even­tu­ally found its way into kitchens, es­pe­cially after some of its bit­ter­ness was bred out of it.

In fact, when cook­ing with aubergines, bit­ter­ness can be a prob­lem, a char­ac­ter­is­tic that can be solved by peel­ing or cut­ting them up and leav­ing them to soak in water. As their spongy flesh tends to soak up cook­ing oil, aubergines are often cooked after first cov­er­ing them in bread­crumbs or bat­ter. How­ever, per­haps the op­ti­mal way to pre­pare them is baked in their skins. In fact, the old­est recipes ad­vise peel­ing them be­fore cook­ing them, but today's va­ri­eties do not have such bit­ter-tast­ing skins as in the past.

Keep­ing aubergines can be tricky. They give off eth­yl­ene, which causes other veg­eta­bles to go off more quickly, even in­side a fridge. Thus, the best thing is to keep them in the fridge, but sep­a­rate from other veg­eta­bles and with­out cov­er­ing them so that the gas can dis­perse, help­ing to keep them fresher for longer.

When se­lect­ing aubergines, we should be look­ing for firm, reg­u­lar-shaped ex­am­ples with a uni­form colour. The most ten­der -and tasti­est- have smooth, shiny skins.

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