Food & Wine

food basket. TEXT. CUINA magazine. PHOTO

The versatile cherry

The appearance of cherries is a sign of spring

The ap­pear­ance of cher­ries on mar­ket stalls is a sure sign spring has ar­rived. Be­fore the 19th cen­tury, cherry trees were few and far be­tween in Cat­alo­nia, and only found in pri­vate gar­dens. Yet, after the phyl­lox­era bug blighted the coun­try's vine­yards, many small­hold­ers sub­sti­tuted vines with cherry trees.

In a cen­tury, the cherry has be­come an es­tab­lished prod­uct, par­tic­u­larly in Baix Llo­bre­gat, which is re­spon­si­ble for half of the coun­try's total cherry pro­duc­tion. Nev­er­the­less, cher­ries are also grown in other key areas, in­clud­ing Rib­era d'Ebre, Segrià, Terra Alta, Alt Camp, Alt Em­pordà and Valle­spir.

Today, there are 15,000 dif­fer­ent va­ri­eties of cherry, with more every year. How­ever, con­sumers clearly pre­fer large, sweet cher­ries with bright red skins, and these are the va­ri­eties that pre­dom­i­nate in Cat­alo­nia. The most com­mon va­ri­ety grown in Baix Llo­bre­gat, for ex­am­ple, was orig­i­nally from Cal­i­for­nia.

An ad­van­tage of the cherry is that it is eas­ily con­served. Cher­ries can be sun-dried like toma­toes and then pre­served in glass jars. All you have to do then is add water and use them for stews or desserts.

An­other tech­nique for pre­serv­ing cher­ries is to crys­tallise them by cook­ing them in syrup. Leave them to rest for 24 hours and re­peat the op­er­a­tion 10 days. Cher­ries are also good for g jam. The tech­nique is sim­ple enough and con­sists of cook­ing the fruit with­out their stones with plenty of sugar (three times as much as the weight of the fruit) until the cor­rect con­sis­tency has been achieved.

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