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The magic of cod

Salted codfish is a true northern delicacy

Even though these days fresh cod can be eas­ily found in fish­mon­gers, the magic of this fish is in the tra­di­tional tech­nique for pre­serv­ing it: salt­ing, which gives the cod­fish a unique taste and tex­ture. Dis­cov­ered by the Por­tuguese, Gas­par Corte Real, in his 16th cen­tury whal­ing ex­pe­di­tions to the seas around Ter­ra­nova, the ex­plorer re­turned to the Iber­ian Penin­sula with pre­served, dried cod­fish.

White cod is the most val­ued, which is found in the sea around Ice­land, where the water tem­per­a­ture is be­tween 1 and 5 ºC. How­ever, the prized fish is also to be found near Nor­way, Green­land and Nova Sco­tia. While the salt­ing process is sim­ple enough, de­salt­ing the fish re­quires ef­fort and at­ten­tion. Re­turn­ing the fish to its orig­i­nal state means re­mov­ing the qual­ity of preser­va­tion pro­vided by the salt.

The front part of the fish is the highly val­ued, as it can be up to three-fin­gers thick. The fish can be cooked in the oven, al pil-pil or pick­led. The thin­ner loin, how­ever, is the most highly-prized part of the fish and is ideal for stews and casseroles. Other parts of the fish used in cook­ery are the belly, the tail and the gelati­nous in­sides. Ba­callà es­queixat, in which shred­ded raw cod is served in a salad, is the pre­ferred way of eat­ing the prod­uct in Cat­alo­nia in the sum­mer.

Many tra­di­tional Cata­lan cod recipes are closely-as­so­ci­ated with Lent, when the Church his­tor­i­cally pro­hib­ited the con­sump­tion of meat. In fact, along with the Basque Coun­try and Por­tu­gal, Cat­alo­nia is one of the three great cod-eat­ing re­gions of the Iber­ian Penin­sula.

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