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catalan chic talks to laura leyva of uno models

Bright lights and promises

Catalonia's internationally acclaimed modelling agencies are now putting a new generation of professionals on the world's catwalks

Vivi­enne West­wood, Calvin Klein, l'Oreal Paris, Chanel, Adolfo Dominguez, Bimba & Lola, Harper's Bazaar, Vogue, Mango, Marie Claire, Oysho, Elle UK, Zara, Vanidad, among oth­ers. That also trans­lates as Milan, Madrid, Lon­don, Am­s­ter­dam, Stock­holm, Paris, Mu­nich, and a lengthy etcetera. And not to for­get five days on a lux­ury yacht in the mid­dle of the Med on a swimwear shoot, but that was in the mid­dle of a bit­terly cold Feb­ru­ary and you came close to catch­ing pneu­mo­nia. But you are 19 years old and you can do nearly any­thing and the world is your oys­ter. Or is it? So let's go back to the be­gin­ning.

You were walk­ing across plaça Catalunya in Barcelona and some­one came up to you and.... That re­ally hap­pens?

–I was with my mum and this woman gave me a card and we went to have pho­tos done, just for a laugh.

That was two years ago. Do you re­mem­ber your first job?

–A shoot for Stradi­var­ius. I was ter­ri­fied. I couldn't eat. My legs!

Had you thought about being a model be­fore?

–I have al­ways liked fash­ion and the idea sounded nice but I had never thought about it as a job. To tell the truth, at the be­gin­ning it was dif­fi­cult to take it se­ri­ously. I thought I would do a few ses­sions and noth­ing would come of it.

But it did. So, how do you feel about it now?

–I love it! You adapt, learn, and I have dis­cov­ered that I can do it. It's fun, ex­cit­ing, it has it's bad points, but you learn to ac­cept those things. One thing that you have to un­der­stand is that it's noth­ing like I imag­ined and I sup­pose noth­ing like what most peo­ple imag­ine. Noth­ing at all.

Ex­plain.

–Yes, it's glam­ourous at times and can be ex­cit­ing, but that is a very small part of it. Ba­si­cally it is very, very hard work. I never know what to­mor­row will bring. Things change con­stantly. On a per­sonal level, mak­ing plans is just im­pos­si­ble. I might think I am doing a shoot in Barcelona to­mor­row but in­stead I could be in Madrid for a week and halfway through when I get a call say­ing to go some­where else and that can hap­pen at any time, day or night, and that means drop­ping every­thing and going, and nearly al­ways, alone. For a while I was get­ting home at week­ends to see my fam­ily, now it's not that easy. Work­ing hours? They don't exist. Once I started a shoot at 8:00 in the morn­ing and fin­ished at 5:30 the fol­low­ing morn­ing; 21.5 hours. That's not com­mon, but it can hap­pen.

But trav­el­ling, see­ing the world?

–One part of that I like, one part I don't. Meet­ing peo­ple, going to dif­fer­ent places, learn­ing about them. That is so in­ter­est­ing. But once again, I am usu­ally alone and that means hav­ing to find my way around a new city, prob­lems with the lan­guage, or­gan­is­ing food, trans­port, the way things are done. There's not much time to see things be­cause I am work­ing all the time. Even when I am there for a long time. Lon­don Fash­ion Week, for ex­am­ple. It's fan­tas­tic, but it's to­tally chaotic. I've done two of them and I am about to do an­other. It's not re­ally a week, both times I went for a month. Rush­ing from one end of the city to an­other and 20-odd cast­ings each day as well as the shows and the shoots. Set­ting off at 7pm, get­ting home at 10pm, day in, day out. No breaks. Once there was a strike on the Un­der­ground. I didn't know. I had to be all over the city and I had no idea where I was. I pan­icked. That wasnt a good day, I didn't han­dle that at all well. My Eng­lish is an­other thing I know I need to im­prove. I need it all the time when I am away. But when can I find time to do classes? I can't pro­gramme things like classes, ever. Even get­ting time to relax. Lon­don again, I ar­rive home (well, where I was stay­ing) one night, ex­hausted. At two o'clock in the morn­ing the phone rings. I have a cat­walk show the next day and they want me now, yes, at two in the morn­ing, for a fit­ting.

And you still love it?

–Oh yes, re­ally! But I have to be re­al­is­tic. Peo­ple think it's a fan­tas­tic job, and that it is so glam­ourous, and some of it is, but as I said be­fore, it's just very, very hard work. The worst thing of all? Being alone. Most of the time a model is alone. One of the best jobs I did was in Al­i­cante. I flew to Madrid and met the crew and there were other mod­els, a big group. To­gether we trav­elled to Al­i­cante for the ses­sion. It was so won­der­ful and so much fun and I think for me that was be­cause I wasn't alone.

The agency, Uno Mod­els, how does that work?

–I have met mod­els from all over the world, and quite hon­estly, I think I have a good agency. I have a “booker”, Izate, like a per­sonal agent. A client will call with a pro­file for a job, she and the other book­ers will make a short-list and send that out or per­haps send a group of us to a cast­ing. I spend a lot of time in cast­ings! That doesn't mean that I get the job. It also can be that a pho­tog­ra­pher or a com­pany wants a par­tic­u­lar model, or that a com­pany like Mango is doing a cam­paign or sea­son shoot using the same mod­els. A mag­a­zine might ask to fea­ture a cer­tain model. Any­way, Izate sets it all up: the pa­per­work, travel plans, ac­com­mo­da­tion, every­thing. Then it's up to me. I trust Izate com­pletely, she's al­ways there for me and in some places, like Lon­don, we have sis­ter agen­cies and they or­gan­ise me and look after me. But that doesn't mean they are there to hold my hand.

I have the feel­ing that in two years you have come a long way.

–Def­i­nitely. The job changes you. I am more con­fi­dent. I can do things I couldn't be­fore. I am more re­laxed with it. I re­mem­ber when I first re­alised that peo­ple were recog­nis­ing me. There was a lit­tle girl in the metro star­ing at me and I felt un­com­fort­able. And then I saw that other peo­ple did the same from time to time. Apart from mag­a­zines I am on posters in shops and on bill­boards and peo­ple make a con­nec­tion. I feel OK with it now, but it was strange at first.

Look­ing ahead five years.

–Frankly I don't think about it. I love what I am doing. There are nice things ahead, such as 080 Barcelona Fash­ion, and after that Lon­don Fash­ion week again, and pos­si­bly a stint with our sis­ter agency in New York, The Lions. That's ex­cit­ing. But per­son­ally, what's im­por­tant is to con­cen­trate on the pre­sent. For the mo­ment every­thing is going re­ally well for me and I am happy. What makes it easy is that I have won­der­ful fam­ily sup­port, no pres­sure at all. If I de­cide to­mor­row that I want to call it a day, then I know that I can just close the door and move on to some­thing else. But first things first; to­mor­row morn­ing, Lon­don.

The day after the in­ter­view I texted Laura to thank her for her time. She replied from a far-off city. Of course, it wasn't Lon­don.

Industry revolutions

The world of fashion was outraged in September 2006 when the industry in Spain decided to ban models with a BMI, or Body Mass Indicator, a calculation based on height and weight, of less than 18. Designers, advertising and modelling agencies complained that they were being used as scapegoats for the growing problem of eating disorders. Since then, the measure has been adopted in many countries and even gained legal status. Unfortunately not all are happy and just recently model scouts were caught recruiting outside a Stockholm eating-disorder clinic.

Models worldwide are organising to fight for basic rights and to address serious issues within their industry. A recent article in insider magazine Flare shows cause for concern. Models are starting to speak out and as each one does, many others follow suit and this brings much needed change. See:
www.flare.com/fashion/the-creepy-truth-about-the-sexual-harassment-of-models

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