THE LAST WORD
FOUL LANGUAGE
A couple of years ago my daughter spent a summer in the south of France. As getting her to her destination in the middle of the French countryside on a combination of planes and trains would be complicated, my wife and I decided to drive her there and at the same time take advantage of the trip to enjoy a short holiday.
On the way back, we decided to stop off in the city of Nîmes and check out its Roman remains. In fact, I found a swish-looking boutique hotel before we left. The hotel website was as stylish as the decor, the English on the site was impeccable, the reviews from international guests were complimentary, and in just a few clicks I had a room booked.
Jump ahead a week and one balmy summer evening we are pulling into a free parking space that we happened to find right outside the hotel and looking forward to exploring the city. While my wife finished parking, I went into the hotel to begin the booking-in process. The young lady behind the reception desk smiled when I entered but as I informed her of who I was and that I had a room booked, a blank look came over her face. I repeated what I had said – a little more slowly and clearly – but it seemed as if she didn’t understand a word.
Our mutual puzzlement was interrupted by my wife entering and greeting us in French. The receptionist responded by clasping her hands in front of her in a gesture of extreme gratitude while babbling at my wife in French, presumably thanking her for rescuing her from the nasty Englishman who had insisted on speaking his foul language on hallowed French soil.
My wife’s French is far from fluent but it’s good enough to book us into a hotel, a hotel in an international tourist destination that advertises in English and welcomes guests from all over the world, yet a hotel where they don’t appear to speak English. The receptionist went on to show us – I say us, but really just my wife because she never again acknowledged my presence, I can only assume due to my lack of French – the hotel facilities and the room and wished us – my wife – a pleasant stay, all in French. It got me thinking how I should use my new power of invisibility.
It’s not the first time I’ve had language issues in France. Just to give another quick example, last summer I was in France with my motorbike friends, who are all Catalan and don’t speak French. We were in a town trying to find lodgings we had booked but needed help. My friends suggested that I – as an English speaker – should ask for directions in a nearby hotel. I went in but the (very pleasant in this case) receptionist informed me that he didn’t speak English, in a four-star hotel, in a tourist area.
You begin to suspect that they may be doing it on purpose to make a point. I will say this about the French, their bolshie attitude towards their language, especially given the general dominance of English, is annoying but also admirable. They are unapologetic about their preference for their own language and there’s something about that determination I like.
In this issue of the magazine we have a multi-page report about the decline in the use of Catalan in Catalonia and how the language might be better protected. Perhaps the Catalans should take note of French linguistic intransigence and not be so quick to abandon their native tongue in favour of Spanish, or heaven forbid, English.
Opinion