TOURIST TRAP

Barcelona is now a magnet for millions of tourists. With its stunning architecture, lovely beaches and a gastronomy that makes you weep with joy, it’s no wonder my adopted home has become a must-see destination. But is that what we want?

Let’s start with an obvious perk of tourist activity: money. Barcelona’s economy thrives on tourism, which pumps millions into local businesses. Not mine though. Hotels are fully booked, restaurants can barely keep up and gift shops selling Gaudí-themed mugs are making a killing. From Les Rambles to the Gothic Quarter, the cash registers are singing songs of joy (though more to the tune of Andalusian flamenco than Catalan sardanes).

For locals who rent out rooms on Airbnb, the booming demand is a gold mine. Not for me though. Some have discovered that they can charge more for their spare bedroom during peak season than for an entire apartment in other parts of Spain. It’s a win-win – unless you’re a local renter, like me, but we’ll get to that.

Another undeniable pro of having a gazillion tourists in your city is the cultural exchange. In Barcelona, you can meet people from every corner of the world, which means exposure to diverse languages, foods and customs. You might be sipping vermouth in a tapas bar next to a Brazilian couple, while an Australian backpacker strikes up a conversation about flamenco. Again.

And while the economy may be booming (for some), getting from point A to point B in central Barcelona is now akin to playing human bumper cars. Want to take a peaceful stroll down Les Rambles? That will never again be possible. It’s now a contact sport, where you have to dodge selfie sticks, oversized suitcases and tourists walking at a snail’s pace while gazing at maps or Google-translating menus.

Ah, Gaudí, Barcelona’s beloved architectural genius. His masterpieces, from the Sagrada Família to Park Güell, are the main reasons so many people flock here. They’re no longer available to me, though. For locals, visiting these landmarks has become something of an Olympic event. Forget getting a peaceful glimpse of La Sagrada Família on a Saturday; it’s like wading through a sea of backpacks and floppy hats, with zero chance of taking in the (gradual) ongoing architectural changes.

But let’s try and be positive: Barcelona has an infectious energy thanks to the constant influx of travellers. The nightlife is buzzing, and even in the off-season, there’s always something happening. In the summer, the city becomes one massive beach party, with festivals like Primavera Sound drawing music lovers from around the globe. If you thrive on excitement, which I haven’t done for a long time now, then Barcelona’s tourist season feels like a never-ending celebration.

Unfortunately, the downside to being a tourist hub is that many of us feel like we’re being squeezed out of our own neighbourhood, thanks to skyrocketing rents and the conversion of flats into holiday rentals. The charm of Barcelona’s old town areas, like El Born and Barceloneta, is fading under the weight of high-end souvenir shops and restaurants catering exclusively to tourists. And even in my neck of the woods, the very Catalan residential Sant Gervasi, rude young Airbnb tourists can make life a misery.

As a result of all the above, there’s been a rise in anti-tourist sentiment, with graffiti reading “Tourists go home” and water pistols being squirted at bemused foreign diners.

So, is Barcelona better or worse because of the tourists? The truth is, it’s a bit of both. The city is alive with a vibrant, multicultural spirit, and the economic benefits are undeniable. But for locals, the sheer volume of visitors can make everyday life a challenge. The trick, as always, is to find a balance… it won’t be me doing that though.

Opinion