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A trip to the Middle Ages in Baix Empordà

Many of the towns in the Baix Em­pordà re­gion re­main im­preg­nated with the feu­dal aroma that shaped them. We pro­pose a route that passes through 10 towns re­tain­ing the essence of the Mid­dle Ages.

In the his­toric cen­tre of Pals stands the Ro­manesque tower built be­tween the 11th and 12th cen­turies, known as the Torre de les Hores (Tower of the Hours). The town’s Gothic Quar­ter is also to be found here, with its cob­bled streets, semi­cir­cu­lar arches, and stone fa­cades and bal­conies.

Tor­rent Cas­tle pre­serves the me­dieval gate of the walled en­clo­sure, while it is also worth vis­it­ing the Church of Sant Vicenç, the Sant Llop her­mitage and the Puig Roig dol­men. Palau Sator re­tains enough of the old me­dieval wall to be able to fol­low it. The four churches and the cas­tle, which dates back to the 10th-11th cen­turies, are other land­marks of local her­itage.

From here we go to Per­atal­lada, which has man­aged to pre­serve its ar­chi­tec­tural and urban ori­gins with­out ex­pand­ing be­yond the perime­ter of the old town walls and also re­tains the orig­i­nal dis­tri­b­u­tion of its nar­row, wind­ing streets.

Ul­las­tret, mean­while, boasts the largest Iber set­tle­ment in Cat­alo­nia. The an­cient walls are in very good con­di­tion and it is also a good start­ing point for reach­ing other me­dieval towns such as Mata­ju­daica, Casavells, Castell d’Em­pordà, La Bis­bal, Vulpel­lac, and Cana­post.

A stopover in Parlavà re­veals a Ro­manesque church, some me­dieval farm­houses and the re­mains of an old cas­tle, while Rupià has some ad­mirable nooks and cran­nies in its old town. Foixà boasts a cas­tle first doc­u­mented in 1019, re­built in the 13th cen­tury, and re­stored at the end of the 20th cen­tury.

Pont del Tinell

Then, La Pera has the bridge known as the Pont del Tinell, me­dieval streets and a church. In Púbol is to be found the mu­seum house of the Gala-Dalí Cas­tle, while Corçà is a good place to take a walk through its old streets and visit its chapels be­fore mov­ing on to Casavells, Mata­ju­daica, and Cassà de Pelràs.

Mon­ells takes us back in time, with its for­ti­fied gar­dens, the Sant Genís church and the Plaça de Jaume I square. Mean­while, Cruïlles was first doc­u­mented in the 10th cen­tury and a stroll through its me­dieval town of­fers a visit to the Monastery of Sant Miquel. The me­dieval itin­er­ary ends with a quiet walk through the his­toric cen­tre of Sant Sadurní de l’Heura.

out & about

What to eat

Tourists are not only interested in old stones. The gastronomy in Baix Empordà is generally of high quality and it has cuisine that is recognised internationally. At its heart are products from the coast and from the mountains, and sometimes the two come together, as with the dish lobster with chicken. Then there is empedrat salad, rabbit with chocolate, pumpkin flower omelette, or rice in squid ink, to name just a few local dishes.

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