The Black Mountain trail
A route along the old paths connecting the seaside towns of Llançà and Port de la Selva with Cadaqués, bordered by dry stone walls and slabs that still preserve the memory of passing carts
The northern part of the GR-92 route, the long-distance path that follows the entire Mediterranean coast, allows us to enjoy the craggy Cap de Creus landscape, one of the most attractive sections on the entire coastline. Our route starts from Llançà and ends in Cadaqués, a long and demanding walk of around 18 kilometres. We will pass such emblematic places as the monastery of Sant Pere de Roda, above Port de la Selva, to later arrive at Dalí’s workshop house in Port Lligat. It is, without doubt, one of those excursions that make you fall in love with the country and hiking. Between the Port of Llançà and Port de la Selva the route stays almost permanently along the Camí de Ronda, on the seafront, with steep drops to the water. The beauty of Port de la Selva should not be missed. From here we head along the old path that connected the two villages of Port de la Selva and Cadaqués: the Muntanya Negra – or Black Mountain – trail.
In Port de la Selva, along the road to Cadaqués, we leave behind the cemetery and take the GR-92, perfectly signposted and very steep, with its beautiful views of the village to delight us as we move towards the highest point of Torellò. From here we climb, with the ruins of the Torrelló peak already in sight. Much of the road, bordered by stone walls, is paved with flat slabs that still bear the ruts of carts from days gone by. Torrelló has dry stone constructions, some war bunkers with half-metre-thick dry stone-covered walls.
At this crossroads we take the path south, towards Mas Bufadors. This is a forest path that rises gently along the Romanyac riverbed on the right. On the other side of the riverbed are the Roda mountains, with Sant Pere de Rodes and Sant Salvador crowning the mountain.
We can visit the ruins of Mas Bufadors, which boasts a magnificent view to the north. In this area we find a dolmen, one of the many megalithic constructions scattered throughout the northern part of the Empordà region. Now the road forks and we head up towards the Black Mountain looming before us. Fifteen minutes later we reach the pass and already see Cadaqués far below. The top of the Black Mountain is to our right and easily accessible. We continue down the path that goes from Port de la Selva to Cadaqués, passing below and through Sant Baldiri.
From here we drop down about 150 metres to the centre of Cadaqués. The last section is parallel to the road, and we gradually enter the charming seaside village to the west.
out & about
A local cuisine with a taste of the sea
In fishing villages seafood plays a prominent role. There are restaurants faithful to traditional cuisine and others that opt for innovation, with prices for all budgets. Rice dishes include paella, lobster paella, black rice or broth rice. Further highlights are the fisherman’s broth, grilled sea bream, grilled prawns, sea urchins and monkfish with prawns and clams, without forgetting the curious zarzuela, Dalí’s favourite.
