The Eye

Valls, February 2018

A bumper year for calçots

‘Calçot’ sea­son is now well un­der­way. The spring onion-like veg­etable is one of Cat­alo­nia’s most tra­di­tional win­ter del­i­ca­cies, es­pe­cially in the south, around the city of Valls. Calçots re­sem­ble scal­lions and are roasted on an open fire until their outer skins are charred.

The trick to eat­ing calçots is using your hands, peel­ing off the black­ened outer lay­ers to ex­pose the ten­der white in­sides, dip­ping them into an al­mond sauce known as romesco and low­er­ing them into your open mouth. Thou­sands of peo­ple travel to Valls in bus­loads every year to stuff them­selves with the onion-like treats.

How­ever, calçots have be­come so pop­u­lar all over the coun­try that the de­mand has boosted sup­ply, lead­ing to op­ti­mistic sales es­ti­mates from whole­salers. Ven­dors in the Mer­cabarna whole­sale mar­ket re­cently said they ex­pect to sell more than 15 mil­lion calçots this year. If the fore­cast is ac­cu­rate, that would mean a record year for calçot sales, 10% higher than last year, when 14.2 mil­lion units were sold, it­self a record fig­ure for the pre­vi­ous 10 years.

Of all calçot sales, the whole­salers es­ti­mate that be­tween 25% and 30% are pur­chased by restau­rants, with up to 15% ex­ported. Patrick Mateu, from Maleubre Cano, said re­cently that mar­kets in Eng­land, mainly in Lon­don, as well as in France and Bel­gium are in­creas­ingly buy­ing calçots, most of which end up in spe­cialised food shops.

Yet, a word of warn­ing. Wher­ever you get your calçots this year, don’t for­get to wear a bib, so you don’t stain your clothes!

the eye

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