Books

Women & Wine

Zoltan Nagy’s book, Reinas de Copas, describes the profiles of 50 women connected to wine production in Spain, some 23 of whom are Catalan

A Hun­gar­ian man writ­ing a book about wine and women from here?
Yes, it’s an issue I like a lot, and I think that a man’s view of women in this sec­tor, which is so closely re­lated to the land and cul­ture, is in­ter­est­ing. I’ve been in­volved in bring­ing tourists to visit winer­ies here for three years and I’ve come to know this world. Women de­serve their own book be­cause of every­thing they pro­vide to the world of wine.
What to they pro­vide?
Many things. Sen­si­bil­ity, hon­esty, pas­sion, a great abil­ity for com­mu­ni­ca­tion. Women even have more taste buds, which is why they dis­cover new as­pects when tast­ing wines. I’m con­vinced that the wine world is chang­ing thanks to women. The thing that struck me most about fe­males in this world is re­al­is­ing that women are ca­pa­ble of tak­ing on dif­fer­ent tasks si­mul­ta­ne­ously, and doing them with pas­sion and hon­esty. It is what I call the oc­to­pus girl!
De­scribe some of them.
For ex­am­ple, Irene Ale­many. In fact, I knew she would be es­sen­tial when I was con­sid­er­ing writ­ing the book. She had breast can­cer, but is now okay: She is so grate­ful to Vall d’He­bron hos­pi­tal that she now makes a spe­cial wine called Mi­cro­scopi to raise funds for can­cer re­search. Irene makes wine in her Ale­many i Corrió win­ery, which is tiny but which cre­ates a big prod­uct. She is a pas­sion­ate, mul­ti­task­ing woman. De­spite hav­ing chil­dren and dogs, she never stops trav­el­ling and vis­it­ing fairs. I wouldn’t be able to keep up with her. But she isn’t the only one. Sara Pérez, who is from an es­tab­lished wine-mak­ing fam­ily in Pri­o­rat, treats her win­ery as her play­ground. She is a true Xena war­rior princess of wine. She man­ages sev­eral cel­lars with her hus­band, René Bar­bier ju­nior, with whom she has main­tained a great love story that is re­flected in their wines, and also with her fa­ther, Josep Lluís Pérez, one of Pri­o­rats’ best-known names.
There are cases of women who give up city life to make wine in the coun­try.
Yes, we should be thank­ful be­cause this gen­er­a­tion gives us some lovely wines. One case is Olívia Bayés, who stud­ied in the US and worked as a lawyer in Barcelona, like her hus­band David Marco, who comes from a fam­ily in Por­rera with a long wine-mak­ing tra­di­tion. They de­cided to give their pro­fes­sions up and focus on their true pas­sion, mak­ing wine. They moved to Por­rera and started the Marco Abella win­ery.
You also have some well-known names in the sec­tor, such us Ernestina Torelló, Mireia Tor­res, Mar Raventós…
They are great wine-mak­ing ladies with very im­por­tant ex­port­ing com­pa­nies. Ernestina Torelló is from the 22nd gen­er­a­tion of a wine-mak­ing fam­ily; Mireia Tor­res runs the Jean Leon cel­lar and re­search at Tor­res, and Mar Raventós has run Codor­niu for 20 years.
How do you see the con­sump­tion of wine in Spain at the mo­ment?
I think young peo­ple drink more beer than wine be­cause the wine of­fer­ing is over­whelm­ing. We have to find the way to com­mu­ni­cate its value. By the way, so often it is thanks to women there is wine on the table. With this book I also wanted to make peo­ple get in their cars and visit winer­ies and buy wines. In Barcelona, there are lots of peo­ple that don’t even know where the near­est vine­yard is.

gas­tron­omy

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