In a blue paradise
Due to its relative isolation Tossa has preserved the charm that first attracted artists to its beaches and coves overlooked by coastal paths
Some say that on certain days the ghosts of artist Marc Chagall and Hollywood acress Ava Gardner appear in Tossa's Vila Vella. The former, who had fled the Nazis in the 1930s, found what he called his 'Blue Paradise' in Tossa, while the latter, like a modern Pandora, who in Greek mythology was the first mortal woman, turned this isolated seaside settlement into a gem in which sea and mountain embraced in a virgin landscape, attracting visitors keen on revealing its secrets.
Tossa has retained its attractions, especially its beaches, which are multiple and varied, from Mar Menuda to the Bona, Pola and Futadera coves. At the same time, the visitor can choose from a variety of coastal paths or make an excursion to the nearby Cadiretes massif, a mystical place that blends myth with history and which rises to over 500 metres at its highest point. It is near here, for example, where the Mare de Déu de Gràcia hermitage is to be found. It is said that this hermitage was once known as the Sant Lions church, from a first mention dating back to 966. The building was partly destroyed in the Peninsular War.
This is also the location of the building dedicated to Sant Grau d'Aurillac, whose relics were removed by Queen Maria de Montpeller around 1200. After years of neglect, Sant Grau was bought by the local authority in 2009 from Ibercaja for a million euros. In 2013, it reopened, with a bar on its terrace.
For those looking for views of the Mediterranean, the coastal path from the Llevador cove to the Vila Vella, provides a virgin space between blue sea and natural white cliffs.
And, when the day is over, whether spent enjoying the beach or exploring the landscape, the town's new and old quarters remain to be discovered. The former is ideal for gastronomy, shopping and fun, while the latter, the Vila Vella, is a fortified area forged by tales of war and pirates.
For culture lovers there is the local museum, located in the centre of the walled old town in the Falguera house, which is also known as the house of the Batlle de Sac or Cal Governador. Here is to be found Chagall's The Celestial Violinist, as well as paintings from Catalan artists, such as Emili Armengol, Lola Bech, Rafael Benet, Joan Brull, Ricard Canals, Pere Créixams, Emili Grau-Sala, Jaume Mercadé, Josep Palau and Joaquim Sunyer, and those of foreign painters, such as Georges André Klein, André Masson, Jean Metzinger, Olga Sacharoff, Julius W. Schülein and Oscar Zügel.
Meanwhile, there is also the Ancient Hospital of Sant Miquel. This former hospital was founded in 1773 as a hospital for the poor. Its founder, Tomás Vidal i Rey, had made his fortune in the Americas. It is a two-story building with a central courtyard, and now houses the town's cultural centre.
Finally, we cannot leave Tossa without mentioning its food offering, especially the traditional fish and vegetable stew known as “cim i tomba”, a blend of sea and mountain that reflect the spirit of the seaside resort.
The route